On a personal note

I am very touched by how excited Josh and Jacob are about the experiences Eric and I are having.  Even leading up to this trip. their happiness for us was clear.  While on this trip, they have been anxiously awaiting reports from us.  

This trip pushed me out of my comfort zone; I haven't had a strong desire to travel too far from home.  It is much easier to just step on the sailboat and stay close, but still enjoy a wonderful escape.

But Josh's blog post about what are we looking for when we travel really sums up this trip for me; Josh concludes that we travel to see how people live and to get "culture shocked."   I have definitely accomplished those things in Vietnam.  I have done a good bit of traveling, but Vietnam is different.  It is struggling to break out ot the old and move forward, but this country is so poor and most of the people don't know there is a different life.  Their lives are on the streets - literally.  They cook on the street, socialize and sleep.  This is what their parents and grandparents did, and there are so many young people who are following in those footsteps.  The difference now is that they all have smartphones and are able to see there is more - but the chances of them being able to break away is almost impossible.

So, thank you Eric, Josh and Jacob for encouraging me to step out of my bubble.  I have gained a new perspective.  Vietnam has definitely "culture shocked" me.

Journey to Halong Bay

Yesterday we flew from Hue to Hanoi, and boarded a bus for a 4 hour trip to Halong Bay.  It was a long  ride, but our experience today made it worth it.  Halong Bay, which means descending dragon, has 2000 islands shooting out of the water into the sky.  We went on a boat for a few hours around the bay, all of us trying to to capture the beauty by taking hundreds of pictures.  But with all of the technology, it was impossible.  It was really quite an amazing sight to see all of these islands, each one different.  We made a stop to tour a beautiful cave.  When we came back to the boat, we were served a delicious lunch, which was prepared in a tiny kitchen on the boat.  

Back on the bus to Hanoi, for 3 days.  Hanoi is a bustling city, totally opposite from the peacefulness of Halong Bay.  This evening we say so many people out on the streets, eating, washing dishes and socializing.  We had pho (soup with beef and noodles) at Thin a hole in the wall where the locals eat.  They serve one thing - pho.   We sat down and were brought 2 bowls of delicious pho; we were the only non asians in the place. 

Hue remains the same

We sadly left Hoi An for Hue, located on the coast in central Vietnam.  The bus ride took a few hours, and it was through mountains, so there were amazing views.  The roads weren't always paved very well; I could imagine Jacob motorbiking the same road when we went from Hue to Hoi An.  I am so glad he didn't tell me until it was over!  We arrived and took a walking tour, and after a rest, had dinner in someone's home, which was really charming.  

Today we went on a "dragon boat" on the Perfume River, visited a couple of tombs of Emperors, watched incense being made by hand, and had a delicious vegetarian lunch in a monastery prepared by nuns.

The most fascinating part of yesterday was an hour long pedi cab trip through the narrow streets of Hue.  People live in tiny shacks, and many of them sell things in the front of their little home.  I could peer into their homes, and see that they have little or no furniture (many of them sit on the ground), some people cook on the street, but every home has a small altar to pray for their ancestors, and they all burn incense as a way of honoring those who have come before them.  They have great reverence for their families.  

Most Americans will never be able to take a trip like this, which is a real shame, because seeing the way that people live here, with barely any posessions, is a real humbling experience.  For some reason, I just want to walk the streets and see what their lives are like; I feel a little like I am embarking on their privacy, but it is so foreign to anything I have ever seen before.  They were born here, their children (and there are many) are born here, and they will most likely never experience anything outside of Hue, because they are so poor.  

This is a typical house; the woman below is bathing and washing clothes.

Below is a nun who prepared our vegetarian lunch.

A custom made day

We started the morning yesterday with a visit to Miss Forget Me Not for Eric's first fitting.  We were able to ride bikes into town.  I saw a beautiful silk, and commented it is too bad I didn't have time to have a dress made with it, as we were leaving early the next morning.  The ladies said I could get it made it in one day and preceded to draw a design and measure me.  We went to lunch at Banh My Phuong: on Phan Chau Trinh nearly to the intersection with Hoang Dieu; Anthony Bordain had written that it was the best vietnamese sandwich anywhere.  It was what I would term "street food" so we were a bit suspect, but it was delicious. We wandered off to an outdoor market after lunch, where all the locals buy everything from vegetables, to fish to chicken feet. Back we went to Miss Forget me Not for yet another fitting.  They are perfectionists, and everytime they would mark something up for alteration, someone would ride up on a scooter and take the clothes away to be fixed.  

Back at the hotel we enjoyed the beautiful, tropical pool area and a luxurious massage, complete with the masseurs walking on our backs.

And off into town for another fitting on Eric's 2 suits, sports jacket, pants, shirts and shoes, and my dresses.  We were starting to feel like family there.  We mentioned to them that we wanted to purchase some lanterns, so one of the women walked us over a bridge to a very lively area filled with vendors and many people, until we reached her friend where we purchased our lanterns.  We also mentioned we would like some coffee, so she took care of that for us and told us it could all be put into the clothes box to be shipped.

We had a delicious dinner at Morning Glory, a well known Hoi An restaurant.  And what else?  Back to Miss Forget Me Not for final fittings.  They did not like the way one of Eric's jackets buttoned, so up came the man on the scooter, who took it off to be fixed.  After everything was to their liking, they put it all into a box, 2 people from the post office put it on a very, old scale and told us what the shipping would cost.

Today we left early for Hue.  It was a long ride into the mountains, and the views were beautiful.  We took a walking tour of the Emperor's palace.  More to come...

On to Hoi An

After breakfast with Jacob, we flew to Hoi An (an hour flight) and did a walking tour of this ancient town on the coast.  A big change from the busy Saigon, Hoi An is a charming, beautiful town, known for its tailor shops, lanterns and temples.  It is mind boggling to see the life here and wrap my mind around that these people have probably not seen much else than this tiny town.  Many of the shop owners live in their shops, there are kids running around everywhere and this insular existence is their life - and they are happy.

We had dinner with our group at an outside restaurant, decorated with many lanterns, we went to the Tailoring shop that Jacob recommended called Miss Forget Me Not.  We arrived at 8:30 and they were eating dinner (upstairs in this tiny shop) so they asked us to return at 9, and we were treated like celebrities because of Jacob.  They told me "you have very handsome son" and they showed us pictures of Jacob modeling his suits like in Gentleman's Quarterly.   After at least 2 hours, Eric ordered 2 suits, 4 shirts, a sports jacket, slacks and leather shoes and I ordered a dress - all for $500.  There are only women who work in the shop and they are all sisters; the mother is there too and I think she does the cooking.  Some of them live upstairs in the shop.  There is no air conditioning.  I used the restroom, and it is also their shower; there is a small cooking area in the back.  I watched as the fabric was cut for Eric's suits and shirts.  Someone from a factory comes to pick it up to make the suit, then we will go  back this morning for a fitting.

The hotel is beautiful and very tropical.  The pool area is lovely; there are big urns which are fountains in the pool and there are lounge chairs in the water.  The breakfast was a delicious spread of vietnamese omelets, pancakes, breads, homemade jams, etc.  As we were eating, a lovely woman came out and gave us each a neck massage, so we booked an hour massage for this afternoon for a whopping $23.  It is an adjustment to realize that a dollar means a lot to the people here.  Americans, on the whole, are so spoiled.

As Eric is watching the Bolts game, he is texting with Jacob in Cambodia, Mark in Florida and Josh in California.  I just spoke to Omi, and she sounded like she was next door.  All of this technology makes me feel like this world is really small as there is such a feeling of being connected.

Last day in Ho Chi Minh

After rising early to watch the Lightning lose, we set out to do some shopping.  We are learning the art of bargaining and realizing that we should offer about half of what they are asking.  We met Jacob for lunch in a huge 5 story high end mall; beautiful shops and restaurants.  It is strange to walk off the street where there are many very poor people and into this very fancy mall where there are designer shops.  

We had the most amazing massage together in the hotel; the room had  its own tiny sauna and steam room and shower.  The cost was $22 per person.  I can only imagine how much that would cost in a swanky hotel in the US.  This is definitely a different world.  

A world away; a world of a difference

After another great breakfast, we set out on our day.  We walked to a huge indoor market where there are hundreds of tiny stalls of Vietnamese people selling purses, clothes, knock off watches, etc. etc.  They spot us instantly and call out "please, Madame.  You need this?"  After Jacob had some pho (n the 100 degree heat) we set out to the War Remnants Museum. It is four floors of artifacts and photographs of the "American War." It was a very interesting perspective, and there were many amazing famous photos.  There was only so much agent orange photos I could look at, so we relaxed at a cute bar upstairs, around the corner from our hotel, and had cold beer.

After a much needed nap, we all went to Bui Vien street, a very lively area full of restaurants, bars and fire eaters.  We had beer, and talked for about an hour, then ate pho at an amazing tiny place on the corner.  We were sweating bullets from the delicious spicyness.

Crossed the streets in Ho Chi Minh and still here to tell about it

Our first day here and my mind is buzzing with all the unusual sights - the first being seeing Jacob.  We met him this morning for coffee (after an amazing spread of food in the hotel for breakfast) and watched the Lightning game on the ipad.  Crossing the streets here is a free for all - there are more scooters than cars and they dart in and out of traffic.  There aren't many street lights, so when crossing, one takes a leap of faith and just goes for it. 

After the game, Jacob, Daniel and David checked into our hotel, had laundry service pick up their smelly clothes (about 2 bucks to get them washed, folded and delivered) and we set off to wander the city.  The five of us stick out like a sore thumb because we are white and tall.  There are people cooking pho on the streets, shining shoes, selling fruit, water, etc. and that is the way they make a living.  We enjoyed some delicious pho, and other Vietnamese food for lunch at the Lemongrass, and made our way into a "mall" which was dozens tiny stalls of merchandise, much of it knock offs of designer jewelry and clothes.  

It is hot here, but not hotter than Florida; the difference at home is that we are in air conditioning almost all of the time, and not walking around during the heat of the day.

 There are people sitting on the street everywhere.

Good morning Vietnam

After 26 hours of flying, we arrived safely and are resting in the Paragon Saigon Hotel, lovely and clean.  Jacob and friends are about a 20 minute walk away.  It is 1 am here.  

My first impressions:  people smile!  Why am I so surprised?  Is it because Americans don't?  I am trying to understand why this shocks me so much.  They are friendly and helpful.  

Vietnamese people are very slight and thin.  I haven't been here long, but everyone I have seen so far is thin!  Unfortunately, I know the reason I took notice of this is because Americans are notoriously overweight.

That's all for now...need to get some sleep so we can meet Jacob at 7 am to watch the Lightning game!

Orchids everywhere...a good omen! Below, many people wait at the airport to greet their friends and family.

Welcome to Asia

Our flight to Japan couldn't have been nicer.  The plane was comfortable, the flight attendants were beautifully dressed, gracious, and accommodating and even the food was deliciious.  We had a good Japanese dinner, lots of free wine (you were right, Josh!) and Haagan Daas ice cream for dessert!

We are waiting for our flight to Ho Chi Minh City, where we will see Jacob!  

This is how the flight attendants are dressed.  Jacob told me that it is hard to find anyone who isn't smiling - so far, he is right on the mark.  Is it in the water?   Everyone is so friendly!

A Buddhist Monk blesses our trip

What are the chances of sitting next to a Buddhist Monk on a plane and making good friends?  On our first flight today to LA, we sat next to Chanthon Chin, a Buddhist monk born in Cambodia. He has been training to be a monk since the age of 13 (the age one has to decide whether or not to pursue this path)  Anyway, in this crazy, socially connected world, we became facebook friends and he showed us his Temple in Cambodia, Florida and Phoenix (where he lives now).  He got all excited to find out that Eric is an immigration attorney and immediately made a connection between a friend of his who wants to come to the US and Eric.  Chanthon is very friendly and peaceful - even the flight attendant wouldn't let him pay for a sandwich!  

On to Tokyo now (11 hours) and then another 6 hours to Ho Chi Minh city.  Jacob just texted us to say he is looking forward to our arrival- what a world!